How to Sell Pokémon Cards in Australia

MV Guides · Pokémon

Most Pokémon collections are mostly commons, with a few cards that are worth real money hiding in there. The trick is finding those few and selling them properly, without spending a week listing cards worth 20 cents each. Here's how to go about it.

1. Work out what you've got

• Set and number: at the bottom of the card you'll find a small set symbol and a number like 4/102. Newer cards also have a short set code, like SVI. That's what tells you exactly which card it is.
• Rarity: next to the number, a circle means common, a diamond means uncommon and a star means rare. Newer sets use gold stars for their special illustration and hyper rares, and those are often the valuable ones.
• Holo or reverse holo: on a holo, the picture itself is shiny. On a reverse holo, everything except the picture is shiny. Same card, often very different prices.
• Language: Japanese and English cards are different cards with different prices. Our Japanese vs English guide explains why.

2. Check for the old cards worth a second look

If you've got cards from 1999 to the early 2000s, check these before anything else:

• 1st Edition: a small black "Edition 1" stamp on the left, just under the picture. 1st Edition Base Set holos are the big ones.
• Shadowless: early Base Set prints with no drop shadow along the right side of the picture box. Worth more than the later "Unlimited" prints.
• The holo rares from the first few sets, like Base Set, Jungle and Fossil, especially Charizard, Blastoise and Venusaur.

3. Be honest about condition

Condition makes a huge difference to price. Look at each good card under a bright light:

• The back edges for white chipping. This is usually the first thing to wear.
• The corners for bends or rounding.
• The surface for scratches, especially on holos.
• Creases or bends anywhere. Even a light one drops the value a lot.

Sellers usually describe raw cards as Near Mint (looks unplayed), Lightly Played (small marks), Moderately Played or Heavily Played. If you're unsure, go one grade lower. Buyers trust sellers who undersell condition.

4. Grade it or sell it raw?

Only grade cards that would still be worth more than the grading cost at a 9, not just a 10. For most modern cards, selling raw is the better move. Our guide to getting cards graded from Australia runs through the numbers.

5. Price it from what it actually sold for

Look up sold prices for the exact card: same set, same number, same holo type, same language and similar condition. Ignore asking prices, and remember that most online price guides are in US dollars. Our guide to checking sold prices covers what to watch for.

6. Sell the bulk as lots

Commons and uncommons usually sell for cents each, so listing them one by one isn't worth your time. Group them into lots: a few hundred commons, all the holos from one set, or a set as complete as you can get it. Lots sell much better when you list the main cards or say how many holos are inside.

7. Sealed product

Booster boxes, Elite Trainer Boxes and packs sell well, but buyers are wary of resealed product. Photograph the original wrapping clearly, and never open and reseal anything. On MVCollect, sealed product needs a photo or video of the packed item when you mark it shipped, which protects you if a buyer says it arrived opened.

8. Post it properly

Penny sleeve, toploader, a little tape to stop it sliding out, then a bubble mailer, and tracked postage for anything worth more than a few dollars. Our posting guide has the full rundown.